Working on a dirty surface could introduce dust or debris into the motor housing. It’s especially important to make sure there are no metal shavings in the area, as you’ll be working with magnetic parts that can accidentally attract them in if you’re not careful.
The stator is a fixed steel drum encircling the innards of an electric motor. It typically carries the electromagnet. [3] X Expert Source Ricardo MitchellElectrician & Construction Professional, CN Coterie Expert Interview. 6 May 2020. The armature (also known as the “rotor”) is a small bearing-like piece in the center of the motor construction. When it receives the magnetic force of the stator and windings, it spins, powering the motor. The windings are long coils of copper wire typically located around the stator. They channel electromagnetic energy into the rotor to cause the motor to turn.
You could even make a video recording of the deconstruction process in order to ensure that you’re recreating the original winding pattern and connections precisely.
Wear gloves to protect your hands and avoid transferring the oils from your skin to any part of the stator or armature. Be careful not to damage the armature or any of the surrounding parts of the motor, especially the conductive copper commutation pads. Once you’ve removed the stator and armature, set the housing aside where it won’t accidentally attract stray metal pieces.
Try to bend the tabs as little as possible to avoid damaging them. If one of them happens to break off, you may have trouble keeping the replacement windings in place later on.
Cutting out the spent windings can be painstaking work. It may be necessary to sever one wire at a time to make removing the coils more manageable. Be sure to count the number of winds in each coil so that you can rebuild the motor in the exact same configuration.
Before you handle the cut coils, pull on a pair of thick work gloves to safeguard yourself against cuts and scratches. If the coils refuse to budge, it’s possible that they haven’t been severed completely. Look for connections around the posts or bottom of the coil that you might have missed.
If the insulation paper that’s already in place appears to be in good shape (it should be clean and intact), you can simply leave it where it is and begin the rewinding process. If it appears burnt or otherwise damaged, it’s a good idea to replace it before proceeding. [9] X Research source Do not, under any circumstances, attach the new wire directly to the bare steel stator or armature posts. The coils must be insulated at all times. You can order electric motor insulation paper online from suppliers that carry electrical materials.
Run a search for your engine’s voltage online to see what gauge of wire it’s commonly fitted with. If you don’t see the voltage displayed anywhere, you may have no choice but to eyeball it. [11] X Research source If you’re unable to find magnet wire in the same gauge as the motor’s original windings, opt for a size larger rather than smaller. Thicker wire can slow the motor down slightly, but presents less risk of overheating. Consider using this opportunity to upgrade from outdated enamel-coated wire to a higher quality variety, such as nylon and polyurethane-coated wire.
Leave the end of your first winding free and make sure it’s long enough to reach one of the metal tabs circling the brush pads. Unless you’re familiar with the necessary winding pattern, it’s recommended that you leave the job to a professional. Your motor may not work correctly if you make a mistake. [13] X Research source
If you wish, you can remove a small amount of insulation paper from the spot where the wire makes contact with the tab using a sharp knife or sandpaper to improve the connection.
Double-check to make sure that none of the wires connected to the tabs are touching one another.
If you don’t remember how the motor is supposed to fit together, refer to the photos or videos you took earlier.
Turn the motor off immediately if you see smoke or detect a burning smell. It’s possible that the new windings are overheating, or that there’s a short somewhere in one of the connections. [16] X Research source
