Bottom seals are more or less universal in their design and application, but if your garage door lacks the twin grooves into which a bottom seal is installed, consult your garage door manufacturer for alternatives.
If you find that the strip becomes stuck as you move toward the other end of the door, have another person support the strip of seal as it’s fed into the groove.
Check your garage door’s bottom seal once a year for wear. If it appears torn or has holes, it’s time to get a new one.
A threshold seal sits on the floor of the garage and helps seal the door, and is great when the door doesn’t quite meet the floor evenly.
Make sure the garage door lowers into the seal snugly, and correct the seal’s position as needed.
Let the glued seal dry for 24 hours before you disturb it with a vehicle.
Top seals target the tricky gap at the top of the garage door, which can be a bit awkward to seal because of the way the door retreats into the garage. A brush-style top seal will make sure that your garage door is sealed, even up high.
You only need to cut the brush on the first length of the seal.
Your brush seals should graze the door of the garage in its closed position for maximum effectiveness.
Vinyl weather stripping is nailed or screwed into the frame of the garage door, and essentially brings the frame of your garage closer to the door itself in order to help seal it against the elements.
The fins of the top length of weather stripping should overlap the fins of the side lengths, creating a secure seal.
When using a caulk gun, try for a conservative amount of caulk rather than too much; you can always do another pass, but cleaning up excess caulk can be messy.
You can also do this by holding the length of the V-seal up to the gap, and simply trimming away any excess.
V-seals may deteriorate fairly quickly with heavy garage door usage, so check their condition every couple months or so.
