For your own safety, you’ll want to make sure you have eye and ear protection (lab safety goggles or woodworking glasses and a pair of noise-deadening earmuffs will work just fine) and that you’re wearing a respirator, as there will be lots of foam dust floating around the room once the shaping process is underway.
It’s best to find a blank that’s larger than you want your finished board to be so that you’ll have more room for error in trimming and shaping the foam. [3] X Research source Surfboard blanks only cost a fraction of what premade boards cost, and can be shaped in a matter of hours.
Choose a shape for your surfboard that fits your own unique attributes and needs. The length and shape of your board might be impacted by your weight, body type, riding style or the kind of surf you usually ride. If you already have a surfboard that you like and want to use it as a template, simply trace around it onto a few overlapping pieces of posterboard, then cut out the outline. Lay this outline over the foam surfboard blank as you cut it to get the right length and width. [5] X Research source
Secure the board on your work table or rack (some shapers use special racks with built-in adjustable clamps, others use bungee cords or straps, or simply hold the board down with their free hand) so that it doesn’t slide around as you’re cutting it.
Use the sandpaper to work out any imperfections made from sawing the outline. The sides of the board should be as close to 90 degrees to the deck (top) and belly (bottom) as you can get them. [8] X Research source
If you’re new to shaping, adjust the power planer’s depth gauge to a shallow setting to avoid over shaping or accidentally taking off too much foam at once. Mow the blank foam using smooth, straight sweeps. Rather than sliding the planer straight down the length of the board, start at the stringer (the line running through the midpoint of the board) and guide it from the centerline off the edge. This cuts down on the distance the planer has to travel, producing a more fluid and consistent shave. [10] X Research source
You can attempt this with the power planer, but it may be easier to use a surform tool, as this will give you more manual control over how much foam you remove and prevent you from making irreparable mistakes. Tail rocker allows the rider to manipulate the back end of the board for ease of turning and shifting, while nose rocker keeps the front end of the board from digging into the water as the surfer drops in. [12] X Research source
Concave creates traction for the surfer by “cupping” the water, making it easier to dig in. [14] X Research source Since the rails of concave boards sit a little lower in the water, they naturally give up some speed and lift.
Most professional surfboard makers use a technique called “rail bands” when shaping the rails. Rail bands essentially function as a schematic for how the rails need to be shaved and blended as they meet the deck and belly of the board. [16] X Research source As you shape the rails, crouch down periodically so you can examine the board at eye-level. This will help you pick up on any inconsistencies in thickness or slope.
Heavier surfers may benefit from flat-bottomed boards because their increased surface area prevents the board from sinking into the water as much. Start out with a flat board until you get a sense of what you do and don’t like about it before moving on to more specialized contours.
Many competitive surfers prefer boards with deep single concave. Single concave boards may be difficult to manage in choppy or turbulent surf.
The lift and controlled channeling of double concave surfboards makes them ideal for newer riders who are just learning. [19] X Research source Use a rocksteady double concave board to work on correcting balance issues.
Vee shaped boards can be useful if you tend to change your foot positioning frequently as you ride. This is a popular body style for big wave riding, as it enhances stability and steering and fine balancing ability.
